Strong fingers, healthy joints, better days on the rock.
Evidence-based training, injury prevention and crag guides for everyday climbers, from a strength and conditioning coach who climbs for the love of it.
Start training Plan a Font tripEverything between the gym and the crag
Five sections, each built around one question climbers actually ask.
10 guidesTraining
Finger strength, hangboarding and bouldering programs built on the same principles a strength and conditioning coach uses every day: progressive overload, smart recovery and long-term development..
In physio reviewInjuries & prevention
Clear, research-based guides to the injuries climbers get most: finger pulleys, tendons and elbows.
5 guidesGear
Research-based buyer's guides to the gear that actually helps you train and climb better.
3 guidesHome wall & boards
Planning a home training wall? Angles, plywood, holds, costs and how Kilter, MoonBoard and Tension boards compare..
3 guidesCrags & trips
Practical guides to the world's best bouldering areas, starting with Fontainebleau: when to go, where to stay, which circuits to climb and what to pack..
Start here: three guides in this order
How to Get Better at Bouldering: 17 Tips That Work
17 ways to get better at bouldering faster: footwork, reading problems, projecting, strength and recovery. Practical tips for beginners and intermediates.
Hangboard for Beginners: When to Start and Your First 6-Week Plan
Hangboard for beginners: readiness checks, a simple 6-week plan, good form, how often to train and the finger injury risks to respect before you start hanging.
Climbing Warm-Up: A 15-Minute Routine for the Gym and the Crag
A simple 15-minute climbing warm-up: general movement, shoulders and wrists, progressive finger loading and an easy climbing ramp, plus a crag version.
Train the athlete, not just the fingers.
Climbing performance rests on the same things I work on every day with clients and sports clubs: progressive overload, recovery, general strength and smart load management.
- Every training and gear guide cites its sources
- Clear dosage: sets, reps, rest and weekly structure
- Injury and rehab content reviewed by a physiotherapist before publishing
Hi, I'm Petr.
I'm a strength and conditioning coach in Prague. I train individuals and sports clubs, and climbing became my favourite complement to that work.
Bouldering combines everything I care about as a coach: grip and finger strength, shoulder stability, mobility and body tension. Chalk & Crag is where I share the principles I use with clients, applied to climbing and written for people with jobs, not pros with 20 hours a week.
More about me CoachingImages are AI-generated illustrations based on Petr's portrait.
21 in-depth guides, one place
Swipe through everything published so far, each one researched and cited.
Bouldering Training Program: Weekly Plans by Level
A bouldering training program for beginner, intermediate and advanced climbers: weekly plans, session templates, rest days, deloads and how to progress.
Fontainebleau Bouldering Guide for First-Timers
A first-timer's Fontainebleau bouldering guide: best season, getting there by train or car, beginner areas, circuits, guidebooks, where to stay and the ethics.
Best Crash Pads for Bouldering: Buyer's Guide (2026)
The best crash pad for bouldering depends on your landings and approach. Compare size, thickness, weight and fold style of 7 well-reviewed pads.
How to Build a Home Climbing Wall: A Full Guide to an Adult Training Wall
How to build a home climbing wall for adult training: space, ceiling height, 30–45° angles, kicker, plywood, T-nut grids, framing, holds, matting and safety.
Hangboard Program: The Complete Guide to Stronger Fingers
A practical hangboard program for climbers: who is ready, edge size, grip types, max hangs vs repeaters, frequency, and a sample 8-week plan with safety rules.
How to Get Better at Bouldering: 17 Tips That Work
17 ways to get better at bouldering faster: footwork, reading problems, projecting, strength and recovery. Practical tips for beginners and intermediates.
Bouldering Plateau: How to Break Through V4 (and V6)
Stuck at V4 or V6 for months? Find out what is really limiting you (technique, strength, power, head or recovery) and follow a 6–8 week plan to break through.
Climbing Warm-Up: A 15-Minute Routine for the Gym and the Crag
A simple 15-minute climbing warm-up: general movement, shoulders and wrists, progressive finger loading and an easy climbing ramp, plus a crag version.
Antagonist Training for Climbing: 8 Exercises That Matter
Antagonist training for climbing: 8 push, shoulder and wrist exercises with sets and reps, plus a 20-minute routine you can do twice a week around climbing.
Fontainebleau Grades and Colour Circuits Explained (Font to V)
How Fontainebleau bouldering grades work, how to convert a Font grade to a V grade, why Font feels stiff, and what the colour circuits and their markings mean.
Bouldering Trip Packing List: The Printable Checklist
A printable bouldering trip packing list: crash pads, shoes, chalk, skin care, clothing, crag kit, insurance, camping, apps and leave-no-trace items.
How Many Crash Pads Do You Need? (And How Thick?)
How many crash pads you need for bouldering: one for easy, flat problems, two to three for most sessions, more for highballs. Plus thickness and placement.
Best Hangboards for Home: Beginner to Advanced Picks
The best hangboard for your level, space and budget: a comparison of Beastmaker, Tension, Lattice, Metolius and Trango boards, plus portable options.
Tindeq Progressor: Is It Worth It? A Buyer's Guide
Is the Tindeq Progressor worth it? Models, app tests (peak force, RFD, critical force), published accuracy data and how it compares with cheaper alternatives.
Best Climbing Shoes for Beginners: Buyer's Guide (2026)
The best climbing shoes for beginners: flat, comfortable, durable models compared, plus how to size your first pair, Velcro vs laces, leather vs synthetic.
Home Climbing Wall Cost: Build vs Buy Breakdown
How much does a home climbing wall cost? DIY vs kit vs Kilter, MoonBoard and Tension board prices, line items for holds, T-nuts, plywood and pads, Nov 2026.
Kilter vs MoonBoard vs Tension Board: Which Should You Train On?
Kilter vs MoonBoard vs Tension Board compared: sizes, angles, holds, LEDs, apps, grading and home versions, plus which board to pick for your goals and space.
Hangboard for Beginners: When to Start and Your First 6-Week Plan
Hangboard for beginners: readiness checks, a simple 6-week plan, good form, how often to train and the finger injury risks to respect before you start hanging.
Max Hangs vs Repeaters: Which Hangboard Protocol Wins?
Max hangs vs repeaters: what each hangboard protocol trains, what the research says, which suits bouldering or sport climbing, and how to combine them safely.
Finger Strength Benchmarks by Climbing Grade
Finger strength benchmarks for climbing by grade, from Lattice data and research: how to test a max hang on a 20mm edge and how far the numbers really go.
How to Train Finger Strength Without a Hangboard
No hangboard? Build finger strength for climbing with limit bouldering, lift blocks, isometric pulls and finger rolls. What works and how to progress safely.
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